Buttermere Walks

Buttermere is one of the most unspoilt corners of the Lake District. Two lakes, Buttermere and Crummock Water, lie in a deep valley beneath the High Stile ridge, Haystacks and Grasmoor. There is no large town, just a tiny village of two historic inns, a café and a church. The valley was Alfred Wainwright's favourite, and after a day here it is easy to see why.

Why walk here

The walking is outstanding at every level. Our Scale Force walk begins with an easy ramble along the Buttermere shore and the shingle beach where the lake spills into Crummock Water. It then climbs to Scale Force, the tallest waterfall in the Lake District, hidden in a dark ravine on the flank of Red Pike. For a gentler day, the popular circuit of Buttermere itself is largely level, with a short rock-cut tunnel along the way.

Strong walkers can continue from Scale Force up to Red Pike and along the High Stile ridge, one of the finest ridge walks in the western fells. In the village, the small church of St James holds a memorial to Wainwright beneath a window that frames a view of Haystacks, where his ashes were scattered.

Getting there and around

Buttermere is reached by narrow mountain roads: over Honister Pass from Borrowdale, over Newlands Pass from Keswick, or via Lorton from Cockermouth. In the summer season, the 77/77A Honister Rambler bus runs a circular route from Keswick through Buttermere village. Services are seasonal, so check before relying on them. Parking in the village is limited and fills early in peak season and on bank holidays.

Where to base yourself

The village offers the Fish Inn, the Bridge Hotel and the Croft House Café, plus a youth hostel and campsites nearby. Keswick, about 30–40 minutes' drive away, has the widest choice of accommodation and supplies.

When to visit

Scale Force is at its most spectacular after several days of rain, and can shrink to a trickle in a dry summer. Spring and autumn bring quieter paths and fine light on the lakes. Winter can be beautiful, but the mountain passes may be icy or closed after snow, so check conditions before driving.

More to explore

Borrowdale and Keswick are just over Honister Pass. See our Keswick & Borrowdale guide. The wild western valleys of Wasdale and Eskdale are covered in our Wasdale & Eskdale guide. For more cascades, browse our Lake District waterfall walks.